Fast arrival HT 315 Digital clamp meter current AC, voltage DC/AC autoranging

stabilizer wire, Wholesale diode 200

Current Digital Clamp

0.01kw-600kw +/-(3%+5). 600ma/6000ma/60a. Automotive. As shown. Lcd 16 x 20. 300/3k/30k/300k/3mohm. Structure    : 200-20k. Hyelec clamp meter. Digital lcd ac. Wholesale h.d. clamp. Three phase power measure. 255x85x35mm. Wholesale c  max. Dcl3000r. 

39mm Clamp

9v battery(6f22, not included). 2ma/20ma/200ma/10a. Hp-605a. Ms2008a. Ac voltage meter: 24 dc supply. E-bike 72v. Dc 371. -20-70c. Tite: Digital multimeter clamp ac dc. 90 * 180 * 45mm. -40 ~ 750℃±2.0%. Wholesale electrical instrument & meters. Zc354800. Mastech ms6508. 

Precise Device

Testers meter megohmmeter. 2 x 1.5v (aaa battery) (not included). 0.21kg. Resistance (ω): 600ω/6kω/60kω/600kω/6mω/60mω ±(1%+2). F  clamp. 50nf / 500nf / 5uf / 50uf / 100uf +- 4.0%. Dc ac electronics. 130*62*27mm. Electrical clamp meter: 220*81*41 mm. Ms2001f. Measuring capacitance range  : 210mm * 75.6mm * 30mm. 600ohm/6kohm/60kohm/600kohm/6mohm/60m. 400mv/4v/40v/400v ±(0.8%+3)  600v. 4700pf. Adm08d 6000. Ac current:50a/250a/1000a. 

Max 125

Digital clamp meter ms2001. 400/1000a. See description. Temperature (c): 6v dc(lr6*4 alkaline dry batteries, continuously working for 12 hours). Zc23900. 203*51*30.5mm. 0.1 - 99.9% +-(3.0%+5). 0-20m. 660hz/6.6khz/66khz/660khz/6.6mhz/66mhz +-(1%+3). 


<"http://soda-sushi.tumblr.com/page/8" />
Posted 2 years ago / 27,550 notes / Via: artreferences9000

deliciousboards:
“ PLEASE DO NOT INCLUDE THESE BRUSHES IN “MASTER POSTS”
Download Here
How to install ele & blotmaps
Shining like a cats eye
You may be realizing by now that all of my burshes are just 20 billion or so variations of “Flat _____“
”

deliciousboards:

PLEASE DO NOT INCLUDE THESE BRUSHES IN “MASTER POSTS”

Download Here

How to install ele & blotmaps

Shining like a cats eye

You may be realizing by now that all of my burshes are just 20 billion or so variations of “Flat _____“ 

Posted 2 years ago / 78,392 notes / Via: artreferences9000

twcgentleman13:

“Straight lines go too quickly to appreciate the pleasures of the journey. They rush straight to their target and then die in the very moment of their triumph without having thought, loved, suffered or enjoyed themselves…It is another story with curved lines. The song of the curved line is called happiness.”

– René Crevel

Posted 2 years ago / 134,012 notes / Via: artreferences9000

kurisu004:

How to draw feet

Posted 2 years ago / 9,285 notes / Via: artreferences9000

loycos:

Pearl tutorial! i already did one a few months ago but it doesn’t explain the body part so i thought i’d draw a better one.

to the anon who wrote me, Pearl’s actually my favorite character!

EDIT: I forgot to do a double check on spelling and grammar mistakes I have like billions of them but I’m at work and I can’t fix it so the Internet will have to suffer my horrid English *shrugs*

Posted 2 years ago / 6,184 notes / Via: artreferences9000

drawingden:
“ How to draw bodies in profile (the easy way) by Lily-Draws
”

drawingden:

How to draw bodies in profile (the easy way) by Lily-Draws

Posted 2 years ago / 43,725 notes / Via: artreferences9000
How to do the gradient dots…thing

lassiecrumby:

shilloshilloh:

Just gonna post this here so everyone can see just in case they’re interested also. And don’t worry, I don’t mind people asking me how I do stuff haha. 

So someone asked me how I do those dotted gradient background like the image below so here goes~

image
  • First you make a new layer below your image
image
  • then you click the gradient tool. Make sure your foreground and background color is set to the default black and white. Then use it on the layer below your image.
image
  • Now go to Filter»Pixelate»Color halftone and click it. A window should pop-up after.
image
  • Welp there’s your window! Now change all the variables to 45
image
  • It should now look something like this! If you want the dots to have a different color then make a new layer above the dots and set the layer mode to “screen”
image
  • On that layer which is now on the “screen” blend mode fill it with any color you like using the paint bucket tool. 
image

And there you go! I hope this was helpful :’>

AUUGHHH I’VE BEEN WONDERING ABOUT THIS DOTS BULL FOREVER OMG FINALLY A TUTORIAL AAAHH

(Source: sojubeats)

Posted 2 years ago / 1,141 notes / Via: artreferences9000
Drawing humans [2/?]: Legs and posture

kaenith:

image

First of all, thank you! :D

I touched on the subject of leg proportions in my last post, but I didn’t get very specific at the time.  The leg is divided into three major portions: the thigh, the calf, and the foot.  For humans, we walk on our heels, and the thigh and the calf are about equal lengths.  Since the legs make up roughly half a person’s height, that means that the calf and the thigh are each about one-quarter of the figure’s total height.

image

One way to make a standing pose more interesting is to make use of the concept of contrapposto (warning for artistic nudity at the link).  Basically, this is referring to when a figure’s weight is more on one leg than the other, resulting in their shoulders and hips being canted at different angles.  This makes for a more dynamic and life-like pose.

image

[Photo source - Also, it is Michelangelo’s David and I did add the censor myself, so, you know.  Artistic nudity again.]

Another thing to keep in mind while drawing poses is the line of action, which flows in the direction of your character’s movement (typically, it follows their spine).  It’s best to decide on this line early on, since it affects the placement of everything else.

image

Practicing with references is also really, really helpful.  (And in fact, that’s exactly what I was doing in the that fire poi post you mentioned!)  There are a couple of ways to do this. Drawing from life is great if you can take a class (or bribe a friend into holding still) but that’s not always an option.  The website Pixlovely has a few great tools geared towards helping artists practice gesture drawing with human and animal subjects.  You could also browse a stock image gallery or search Google to find a particular pose.  Personally, I like working from video screenshots, especially for more action-y poses.  The image quality isn’t usually as high as a stock photo, but by watching the video I can get a sense of the overall movement, instead of just one moment in time, and in my experience it tends to look less staged and stiff.

Other useful tutorials:

Pukind on achieving a “lively” feeling to a pose

Curves and angles of the arm

Helpfulharrie on dynamic lines

Feet studies

Kaalashnikov on leg anatomy

Posted 2 years ago / 57,201 notes / Via: artreferences9000

bosmitze:

Awesome tips

(Source: hi-fluent)

Posted 2 years ago / 14,081 notes / Via: sullytutorial
Setting up Clip Studio Paint / Manga Studio 5

biblyoteka:

I’ve been using Clip Studio Paint (aka Manga Studio 5) for the last 2 years and I really cannot recommend it enough. It has the smoothness and blending of SAI, a really good brush system and some of Photoshop’s capabilities without the heaviness of the software. I mean, what more could you want? 

Unfortunately I feel like the UI deters some people from using it (including my friends…). I can see why and I have to admit the default layout looks a little overwhelming in the beginning. On the bright side, CSP is incredibly flexible with its settings and there are many ways to adapt it to suit what you’re accustomed to. In my case, I wanted something more similar to SAI to make the software transition smoother (old habits die hard I guess).

* There’s a note at the end of this post with a download link to my layout and hotkey settings, plus instructions on how to enable it.

I hope this helps people who feel somewhat lost when they open the program for the first time ><

First things first: Close everything you don’t want and drag panels around. Re-arrange everything however you want, even down to tool order. Actually, most of this post may come off as common sense, but I think it still helps to have a rough idea of what exactly you can do with CSP if you find yourself just not getting into it at all.

This is the default:

image

My current layout:

image

After that, there are four areas of settings you need to check on, under File:

image

Preferences

From the Preferences you can edit a lot of options regarding to how the software functions. From a UI and general ease-of-use standpoint, these are the key points you might want to look at:
Interface tab: You can change the UI to have a light or dark colour using a slider, from a really light gray to really dark gray (almost black, similar to Photoshop CS6 default)

image

Cursor tab: You can change what the cursor looks like when selecting certain tools.
Layer/Frame tab: You can change the naming convention for when you duplicate a layer, and you can also set layer folders to [Through] layer mode as a default, instead of [Normal] layer mode.
Ruler/Unit tab: For changing the guide lines for when you set rulers, also setting the default units you want to use (px or mm)
Canvas tab: Under ‘Scale’ and ‘Angle’ you can set the zoom and rotate levels the zoom and rotate buttons snap to.


Shortcut Settings

image

This is pretty self-explanatory and if you’ve modified Photoshop hotkeys, the window might look familiar. If you use hotkeys heavily like me, I recommend you look through it thorougly since some hotkeys might be different from what you’re used to or don’t have a hotkey set to it at all. You can set hotkeys to anything on the main menu, various general options (like increasing/decreasing brush size and main>sub colour switching), specific tools (even custom brushes) and auto actions.
Settings I recommend checking, mostly because these are what I personally care about:

Main Menu:
Edit > Clear
Edit > Fill
Edit > Convert brightness to opacity (converts degrees of white to degrees of transparency, useful for things like lineart)
E dit > Transform
Layer > Duplicate layer
Layer > Merge with layer below / Combine selected layer (these two are different, and unlike in PS where Ctrl+E works for both, it is separate for CSP)
Layer > Combine copies of displayed layer (Merges all visible layers into a separate layer, aka PS’s monster shortcut of Ctrl+Alt+Shift+E)
Selection > Select All
Selection > Deselect
Selection > Invert selected area
View > Rotate > Flip Horizontal (mirroring)

Option:
Drawing color > Switch main color and sub color
Drawing color > Switch to transparent color
… Or any of the different combinations they have, depending on what you want. Unlike PS and SAI, CSP has a third colour option available, which is ‘transparent’, so you can ‘paint’ using transparency, which functions pretty much like the eraser without needing to change tools.


Modifier Key Settings

This is a pretty important part to stop by because it affects how you use your tools. Basically, for each tool, you can set what happens when you hold Ctrl, Shift, Alt, Spacebar or use the mouse wheel. With Photoshop and SAI, you may be used to normally having the colour picker / eyedropper when you hold Alt, and moving the layer’s contents when you hold Ctrl. Some of CSP’s default values of these shortcut keys are different, and I recommend getting a feel for the tools you use and changing these settings as you go.

To change a brush to eyedropper while holding Alt:
► Select ‘Settings for each process of tool’, and under ‘Sub Tool’ select which specific tool you want.
► Under the 'Alt’ dropdown, select 'Change tool temporarily’, then click the Settings button. Select 'Eyedropper’ and click OK. (You don’t have to go all the way down the list of settings, unless you want to refine i t to a more specific function)

image

To change to move layer while holding Ctrl:
► Do the same except under 'Ctrl’, select ’ Change tool temporarily’ to 'Move layer’.

Other settings from the drop down:
For Shift, you can go to 'Tool aux. operation’ on the dropdown, and check the 'Straight line’ box to make straight lines that connect clicks when you hold Shift.

There are more so please look at the list carefully if you find yourself needing something regarding those key holds.


Command Bar Settings

The command bar is the strip at the top with all the icons, just above the canvas tab. Basically you can put a bunch of shortcuts there of anything in the main menu. It’s really up to you. For mine, I keep the View > Rotate > Flip Horizontal icon on there so I can tell if my canvas is mirrored (because sometimes I forget the canvas is flipped and only realise when I’ve saved and looked at the pic). I also put the icons of all the correction layers I use the most, and the Layer > Combine selected layers icon since my Ctrl+E is already taken up by Merge with layer below.

image

Additional general notes on navigating and setting up CSP:

► I recommend checking out everything under the Window menu, you might find a really handy panel that isn’t normally open, o r you can even disable the Command Bar if you want. I like to keep the Information tab somewhere on the side so I can see if I’ll start lagging any time soon because of big files (lol).

image

► The Sub View panel is also really useful that it works as a box to place reference images in. You can open an entire folder there and scroll through using the arrows. You can set it so that every time you hover over the panel, the eyedropper is automatically on (handy!)

image

► Brush settings are accessible through this little wrench here at the bottom right corner of the tool property panel.

image

► Speaking of brushes, you can select which options are visible in the tool property panel by enabling the eye button.

image

► Each panel has this menu button. You’ll find even more display options there such as enabling/disabling panel-specific icon bars, ch anging the size of brush tiles, etc.

image

____________________________

TL;DR:
Anyways, if you are too lazy to do this all yourself, you can just download my workspace file and open it yourself.
Everything I’ve written about here (shortcuts, modifier keys, etc.) I’ve set to suit habits I’ve formed from using PS and SAI over the years. If you are in the same situation then I hope this will come in handy as a base for your own settings!

Personal hotkey list that’s included in the file (that I can remember):
A = Brightness to opacity
D = Clear layer
F = Fill
Ctrl+J = Duplicate Layer
Ctrl+K = Flip laye r/selection horizontally (as in the Transform command, and not mirror)
Ctrl+U = Hue/Saturation
Ctrl+L = Levels
Ctrl+Shift+I = Invert selection
Ctrl+I = Invert colours
Ctrl+E = Merge to layer below
Ctrl+Alt+Shift+E = Merge all visible layers to a separate layer
Ctrl+T = Transform
Z = Main > Sub colour switch
Shift+Z = Switch to transparent colour
X = Mirror canvas
1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9,0 = Change brush opacity in 10% increments
End = Resets Rotate and Mirror

Things like Ctrl+Z / X / C /  V / A / D / W / O / S etc. remain the same as normal in other programs. Ctrl+Y is Redo.

Download link: SAI…ish

Instructions: Put the file in your Documents \ CELSYS_EN \ CLIPStudioPaintVer1_1_0 \ Workspace Folder. Then open CSP and go to Window > Workspace and select “SAI…ish”. Click OK to importing the settings. Hopefully that should work! (If nothing changes, you can try Workspace > Reset “SAI…ish” and click Yes)

* Make sure the file is named workspace_2.spws
* If that clashes with another workspace in your files, you can just change the 2 to any number

Posted 2 years ago / 147,878 notes / Via: holyshitartrefs

anatomicalart:

Let me link Yall’ to this holy grail.
I present to you Character Design Reference
on [Pintrest] || [Tumblr] || [Twitter] || [Facebook] || [YouTube]

I couldn’t even include all of the reference boards this blog contains on this photoset. That’s right! There’s EVEN MORE! There are pages and pages of them! It is an inspiration treasure trove!
Bookmark this link!
Fill your life with inspiration!


Ask | Archive | Shuffle | RSS

ABOUT

soda-sushiSushi-Soda's Resource Tutorial blog to help her organize and hopefully be useful to help others. My main blog is SushiSoda